I found a nice, friendly-looking bakery, decided what I wanted from the display case in front, and sat down, eager to get lost in my book. But every time I tried picking it up I found myself distracted. I instead looked idly at my phone, flipping through various applications and checking on conversations with friends. And so it went: I would click open my Kindle, try reading a few paragraphs, put it down to send a text, look outside to the street… then, remembering that I wanted to be reading would pick up my Kindle again, only to realize that I hadn’t absorbed anything from the first pass... So then I would start to reread the passage, and then take up my phone moments later, and so on and so on.
Let me say that the chocolate croissants of this bakery are to die for.* I have developed the habit of eating them in a very particular and disassembling way, peeling layers of pastry off one by one to reveal progressively spongier and chocolate-dusted insides. It is a gutturally methodical, quiet-minded, and slow-twitch activity which, as I have come to realize, is why I like it so much. It requires two hands, periodic examination of the croissant, and careful decision-making; and inadvertently forces me to be slow and quiet and relaxed. I can perhaps talk to a companion during this time if I have one; or take moments between leisurely undressing golden pastry strips to gaze out the window; but I certainly, absolutely cannot rush croissant time.
*My friend Bradley says they are middling – but then again, so is his opinion. He also hates cheese. And that’s all I need to say about that.
My Kindle sits serenely on the table waiting to be read.
So there I was, struggling with my Kindle at the bakery. I had ordered tea, a chicken pastry and a chocolate croissant. (After several following visits to this bakery café this combo has now become “my” order. The cashier addresses me with familiarity when I walk in, and I have found myself, to my chagrin, a firmly established semi-regular. I digress). My pastries arrived shortly after ordering and I thought, Great! Now I can start reading in earnest. And I tried. I really did. But at that time I was naïve and uninitiated in the ways of the croissant. As I found out, reading and eating at the same time was perfectly impossible. I was forced to give it up – at least for a few minutes. And so I ingratiatingly submitted myself to the croissant, my two hands occupied, slowly and painstakingly peeling layer after layer of soft pastry away. Brooding.
You see, reading this book felt important to me – in part because it was quite productive ("The UX Team of One: A Research and Design Survival Guide," by Leah Buley, the cover read). And so I felt disappointed, and perhaps mildly frustrated, at my failing to read it; because this seemed to me the reason why I was at this café in the first place: to bolster my understanding and exploration of the UX profession in which I have been interested.
Suddenly it occurred to me: I don’t need to do this. I don’t need to be productive. Not right
now. Do I? In my mind I was seeking to
make the most of this slow morning time. I imagined a wonderful date with my
book, blissfully engrossed and simultaneously productive in my studying. But – what
if that didn’t happen? In fact, what if I was wholly disengaged and unproductive?
What if I not only failed to read a book but simply sat there eating my pastries, sending banal text messages and looking out the window for the duration of my breakfast, thinking
about whatever I wanted to think about in all of its potential modicum and
unproductivity? What if I did?
I decided that the prospect seemed perfectly alright. So that
is what I did.
And what a nice time it was.
***
In the West we are obsessed with movement, progress, and productivity. We are obsessed with filling our lives; filling our minds; filling space and time; filling our present and futures. We walk, drive and commute with podcasts and audiobooks streaming through our consciousness. We often work, recreate, and fall asleep with screens blaring at us, vying for our attention. “I need to have something on in the background”, a partner used to say as they broadcasted a movie or a YouTube influencer or a video essay on Disneyland theme park rides on one monitor, while playing a video game on another. We are always seeking to “do” things, our dopamine circuits propelling us to look for more and more. Sometimes because we are conditioned to; sometimes because we are driven to; and other times because we have to.
In the East – and elsewhere out of the parasitic reaches of
capitalism and industrial living – there is boundless space and time. I call it
slow time. This can look like deciding to visit a neighbor without notice to
ask a question, staying for three hours, and leaving without the answer to it. It can look like sitting on the stone patio in the sun all afternoon
completely listless. It can look like attending a community meeting that you
know only needs to last a couple of hours that lasts instead from midday to
dusk.
Even as someone who has always appreciated a lot of space
and quietude in life, the difference hits me constantly in the Peace Corps. It
is both excruciating and vitalizing.
***
Some days ago I found myself at the same bakery café as
before. I, again, wanted a slow breakfast with tea and pastries; and again had
brought a book with me (with the intention to read it). I put in my order and settled into a center table from which I could benefit from the warmth of the
sun while watching unaware passersby crossing the storefront’s large glass façade.
Once again I failed to read my book. But this time was
different – I was less fixated on results. Instead I sat and watched, slowly
enjoying my snacks: I watched the sun slowly creep further and further into the
café; I watched two commuting motorcyclists stop in for their morning pastry
fix; I watched a mixed couple on their walk buy treats for their gamboling
children; and I watched the construction workers in their hard hats and reflective
gear pace slowly back and forth on the other side of the street.
A group of young friends wandered to the bakery and lingered
about. As one of them stood by the cashier's counter a motorcyclist
drove by with a delivery. Before either of us recognized
what had happened, a newspaper had slid across the floor and hit his sneakers with a flippant
‘sssthwap!’ He turned toward me to pick it up. We made eye contact and I shrugged
playfully.
The young Nepali unwrapped the bundle into two stacks and placed them on
the round table next to him. I could tell the version he was inspecting was written
in Nepali. I pointed to the other pile. “Is that in
English?” I asked.
“Yeah,” he said, handing it to me. He scanned the issue in his hand for a few moments, unusually curt for a Nepali; but, not finding
anything worth his attention, returned to his group of friends standing outside.
I looked at the bundle of paper he had given me. The Kathmandu Times, it
read in bold type.
The monochrome print crinkled delicately, unfolding in my
grasp like a pair of whispering butterfly wings. I scanned the articles slowly
and started to read. (Trump’s implications on the imminent TikTok ban in the
United States; the state of illegal mining in South Africa; and the potential
of Nepal’s hydropower in fueling the tech industry). It was riveting and (dare
I say?) fun.
Once I exhausted the articles that interested me, I noted the sudoku puzzle at the back of the issue. I still had my book with me. But I felt like giving it a try anyway. This isn’t my newspaper, my anxiety alarm-bells rang. Whose is it then? What if it belongs to the manager and they do this sudoku puzzle every day? What if I'm about to ruin it for them?
It took me a moment to
realize how ridiculous that sounded. That it was likely no one cared, and
that, even if someone did care, it was a reasonable thing for any patron of an
establishment such as this to do.
So I sat in the window and systematically worked through the rows and columns of numbers, logicking my convictions onto paper one after the other. I felt myself melting into flow – that is, until I realized with dismay that I had made a fatal error. The 4 I had confidently written down had a duplicate in the same row. This would take some investment to correct.
I looked at my phone for the first time in a while. I don’t have time to fix
this, I thought. Nor the patience. In fact I had an appointment to
prepare for. So I put the paper down, gathered my things, paid, and bid goodbye to the friendly
cashier to whom I am now acquainted, feeling light and utterly relaxed.
What exactly propelled me to read a newspaper? I have not
read a newspaper in years and years. And I had brought my book to read after
all. I am a naturally curious person, so that might have been it. Perhaps some delight in entertaining the ‘newspaper-reading in a café’
paradigm (which surely one day will cease to be a paradigm) played a role. I am also sure,
however, that the morning and all of its parts – the interaction with the young
friend, the newspaper reading, the sudoku-filling, and even the conversation I
had afterward with a stranger as I was returning (“You were visiting Seattle?!
I’m from Seattle!”) would not have happened if I had driven deep into my book
as I had wanted. Yet with the perception and allowance of
unfettered time and affordance, they did.
***
Not by chance the second book I brought to read to the cafe was “Stolen Focus:
Why You Can’t Pay Attention” by Johann Hari. My personal lack of attention has been causing
me some low-grade strife (and is why I bought the book). You would think, as I did,
that living in rural Nepal, surrounded by beautiful hills, heartwarming
community, a lifetime experience, and nothing but time would be supremely motivating.
That it would allow someone to work on themselves in healthy ways, being inextricably grounded
in nature and simple humanity and connection. Right?
Wrong.
Unfortunately, despite this reality I feel
frustratingly attached to my phone and computer living in my rural village. Instead of
stretching in the mornings, spending quality time with my community members, reading
books, or being creative, I fall back into the familiar feedback loops of
scrolling through my WhatsApp messages, email, Reddit, and Instagram. This is
what I wanted to get away from in the States only to be placed at one of the
most electricity- and internet-stable villages of my cohort. The irony has not
been lost on me, and the perpetuation of these bad habits turned me to Hari’s
work.
Hari argues many factors for the apparent decrease in our
inherent ability to pay attention as members of a modern, technologically literate, and collective society. Among these factors lie the increase of “multitasking”**,
“the crippling of our flow states”***, stress, social media and its predatory grips, and decreases in mind-wandering. Many of these
factors strongly resonate with me, but the art
of mind-wandering seems especially relevant in the cross-cultural lens of the
Peace Corps.
Backed by the literature of accredited scientists, Hari
states that mind-wandering is “essential for things to make sense,” allowing
our brains to connect sometimes seemingly disparate concepts, inspiring
creativity and insight. “‘If we’re just frantically running around focusing on
the external world exclusively,’ states one of his interviewees, ‘we miss the
opportunity to let the brain digest what’s been going on.’”
Similarly, Hari muses: “I thought back over all the scientific studies I had read about how we spend our time rapidly switching between tasks, and I realized that in our current culture, most of the time we’re not focusing, but we’re not mind-wandering either. We’re constantly skimming, in an unsatisfying whirr.” Reading this, I felt validated.
I understand the elemental privilege of my circumstance. Living here in Nepal with my basic needs taken care of: shelter, food, and healthcare, and a bit extra to cover an occasional excursion to the city – something out of reach for many of my villagers. That being said, something they have naturally ingrained that we do not is their state of relative ease. Of mind-wandering; of just being. Of taking things as they come, asking for a newspaper from a stranger and reading it, of marinating in the moment and the mundanity. Not that this is always beneficial, either. As I said, it can be frustrating... but there is an argument for the benefits that come with a slower and mind-wandering propensity. And therefore an argument for cultivating more of one in our lives. Certainly, in mine.
I feel like I talk a lot about slow time, and I also feel like it is something that volunteers can struggle with, coming from a society that experiences constant movement and stimulation. If you don’t move quickly you get left behind! It seems to shout. You won’t reach your goals! You’re not enough if you are not in a state of production! Your worth is the quantity of your activity and effort!
But are you?
And is it?
I think about a commuter in a typical American city walking quickly
to work, a coffee in hand, avoiding eye contact, earbuds feeding them the newest episode of
their favorite podcast. Then I think about my host mother on our mud-caulked
patio, sitting on a straw mat, warming her legs in the sun and
engaging any of the many faces that have the habit of wandering past our house,
neither party having any particular necessity or purpose.
In the example I have illuminated here I struggled to find production in a single morning. But periods of low activity are quite common during Peace Corps service and can
last a very long time. Volunteers find themselves in trenches of inactivity which can leave them feeling aimless and deeply uncomfortable. These marathons can last days… weeks… and months when there is simply not much
to do; not much that can be done despite their highest desires and best efforts.
Village life is like that. And so is the Peace Corps.
Of course it is important to have some sort of
drive and ambition in order to accomplish beyond the bare minimum, in order to achieve
success. But it’s also okay to be unproductive sometimes. To exist for no
reason. To exist in slow time. It’s okay to not be constantly driving yourself
toward being harder, better, faster, stronger ... or
even simply, less bored. It’s maybe even good. Hari and his cavalry of
scientists say it’s definitely good.****
For me sitting in that café, deep in croissant time,
watching the slow goings of the morning with a mind relaxed and wandering-prone
without any expectations… it felt pretty great. There were (and still are), of course,
personal problems to worry about… work activities to plan… the rest of the day,
and the day after, and the day after that, and the weeks and months after that, to think about… and the list goes on
(Oh – trust me, it goes on).
But the bouts of unproductivity have also opened me to a
state of engagement and possibility that I would have otherwise
shut down. And in some ways my still café moments led me to be more productive and fulfilled than I would have been normally. Perhaps we would feel similarly if we were to replicate this in other facets of our lives as well.
And that, I think, is worth a lot.
**The title of this chapter is “The Increase in Speed,
Switching and Filtering”. It's an impactful chapter but less topical to the
moral of this blog piece, so I neglected to speak about it here.
***”The Crippling of Our Flow States” is another pregnant
chapter of the book that I gleaned a lot of insight from.
After reading this chapter I realized that when I was first at the
bakery with my Kindle what I was desperately seeking was pleasure derived from the flow
state of reading. But it wasn’t
attainable in that moment. So what ended up happening was that, being unable to
achieve flow (a healing activity that builds up attention and happiness, argues
Hari), I replaced it with another attention-healing activity – mind-wandering – which was
likewise pleasurable. This made so much sense to me.
****in moderation. Note that too much of anything can be bad. I found this passage from the book poignant: ”Given
that mind-wandering has been shown to have so many positive effects, why does
it so often make us feel bad? There is a reason for this. Mind-wandering can
easily descend into rumination. … In situations of low stress and safety,
mind-wandering will be a gift, a pleasure, a creative force. In situations of
high stress or danger, mind-wandering will be a torment.”